Standing at 3,647 metres (11,965 ft) above sea level, the wooden terrace at Capanna Gnifetti is bathed in faint light. Climbers are getting ready to attach crampons to their boots. From time to time, the rhythm of their breathing is interrupted by a carabiner dropping to the ground, a strident metallic noise. The sun is still asleep, but not the glacier, which moves and creaks like an old chair, challenging you and intoxicating you with adrenaline at the same time. Harness, helmet and gloves: everything is in place! My companions and I tie ourselves to a single rope, a game of knots and manoeuvres, an act of responsibility and trust: my life is in their hands, theirs is in mine.

The journey to Capanna Margherita is a breathtaking experience in every sense. At an altitude of 4,554 metres (14,941 ft), it’s the highest refuge in Europe, on the watershed between Italy and Switzerland. In recent years this route has become a great classic, yet its beauty and magic do not wane.

In this Collection, I've summarised my experience in July 2020, after months of lockdown. Although I only spent two days at altitude, it was a real breath of fresh air.

The Capanna Regina Margherita mountain hut was officially opened on 18 August 1893 in the presence of the queen. It originally appeared as a small wooden structure, but several extensions over the decades have brought it to its present form.

This route isn’t a hiking route, but a mountaineering one: it crosses glaciers, not always in good condition, and exposed sections. This is why you should only undertake it if you have experience in this type of terrain or are with a mountain guide. Glacier walking can be very dangerous. It’s essential to tackle the ascent with the right equipment and a good knowledge of high mountains.

It’s important to acclimatise as well as possible. Our bodies are not used to living at such high altitudes and mountain sickness is always lurking. I recommend you make the ascent in two days, sleeping at Capanna Gnifetti (or at Rifugio città di Mantova) to get used to those altitudes without rushing. Drink plenty of water, hydration is essential, and relax. If you develop symptoms such as a stabbing headache or great difficulty breathing, turn back and lose altitude. Mountain sickness is no joke and you need to know when to give up.

As well as your rope, crampons and helmet, don't forget to pack a sleeping bag for the refuge, sun cream and thermal clothing. Bring energy bars and a good supply of water.

This Collection starts and finishes at the Punta Indren cable car station, which can be reached from Staffal (Gressoney-La-Trinité) in Val d'Aosta. The cable car descends into the valley by car or bus from Pont-Saint-Martin station. You can find the timetable for the line from Pont-Saint-Martin to Gressoney at this link: vitagroup.it/en/linee-urbane-extra-vda.

Enjoy the ascent!