Military roads, forts and tunnels – gravel in the Southern Alps

High in the Southern Alps, on the border of France and Italy, lie forts, tunnels and ancient military settlements that kept the peace in the area for hundreds of years. Until, in 1940,
the Italians invaded France through the mountains near Montgenèvre. With pressure from fascists and with the German army waging battles in other parts of the country, France fell into the hands of the occupying forces.

Now that the dust has settled, the forts have slowly decayed and blended into the Alpine landscape, but the military roads are still clearly visible. Miles of unpaved paths stretch across the border on both the French and Italian sides. Where troops once moved around and where weapons were brought into position high in the mountains, today is a road network that’s perfect for countless gravel routes through the mountains of the southern French and Italian Alps.

In this Collection, I present gravel routes through the high and rugged Alpine landscape. Most Tours have a military connection, such as the passage of the Tunnel du Parpaillon, the ascent of the Col du Granon, the route along the old forts of Briançon and the kilometre-long Italian military road Strada dell'Assietta. These day trips can be completed entirely by bicycle. For other routes in the Collection, such as the Col de Péas, Col de la Pisse and the Col des Rochilles, come prepared for some hike-a-bike.

The routes have one thing in common: all traverse an Alpine landscape that’s full of surprises and overwhelming views. Climb up from the river valley along a stream and listen to the rush of fast-flowing water. Slowly pass the tree line and enter the alpine meadows where the landscape opens up and you can smell the scent of the wildflowers around you. The higher you go, the steeper and rougher the landscape becomes. In the corner of your eye, marmots dart between the rocks and you can see a col in the distance. You feel the cool breeze on your face and hear the whistling wind between the peaks as you approach the summit. Arriving at the top, you gaze in wonder at the panorama and set off on the deserved descent back to the valley.

I recommend reading the route descriptions carefully before embarking on this adventure. Danger is never far in the mountains. For a start, some descents and climbs are very technical and require experience. Some cols can only be crossed with hike-a-bike – pushing your bike or hauling it on your back, which can quickly add up to time. Therefore, always leave early and always check the weather forecast. Inform someone about your route before setting off. If the route is too long for you, divide it into two and book an overnight stay or take camping equipment with you.

A gravel bike with at least 45-millimetre tyres should suffice on all routes. For the hike-a-bike sections and some descents, a mountain bike provides more comfort, but the thick tyres slow you down on the unpaved or paved climbs.

Finally, flocks of sheep graze in the high mountains during the summer months. You don’t need to fear those sheep, but the dogs who guard them. As soon as you see a flock, I recommend you dismount and wait for the sheep to pass. Almost always, the flock is guarded by several dogs trained to keep wolves at bay or even kill them. Therefore, never get between the flock and the dog and dismount as soon as the animal approaches you. Put your bike between you and the dog and show your presence by talking quietly to him. You will see him calm down and accept you. As soon as the dog ignores you again, walk slowly and get on when the herd has passed.

I’ve now lived in Puy Saint Vincent on the border of the Parc National des Écrins for three years and have fallen in love with the area and all the opportunities it has to offer. I hope you set out carefully and enjoy these routes as much as I do.