In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to launch a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that were plaguing the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves, and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path, it is a journey through the past.

In this six-stage collection, you'll explore the section of the customs trail that winds its way through the Léon region. The northern coast of Brittany to the east of Guissény boasts small sandy coves, jagged cliffs, solitary islets, and sumptuous panoramas. Nature steals the show in the heart of preserved environments such as the Bay of Kernic. Don't forget to bring your binoculars if you're an avid birdwatcher, as thousands of birds flock here every year.

Architectural surprises add to the dynamism of the landscape. As well as the small stone huts that once served as resting places for customs officers, you’ll see old hamlets such as Ménez Ham, austere buildings such as the Château du Taureau, and spectacular structures such as the Morlaix viaduct. To make the most of your surroundings, take your time over lunch breaks. Nothing beats a moment of stillness over a good meal. If you eat in a restaurant, try a "Kig ha farz", a kind of Breton stew made with buckwheat flour.

You can start this Collection by taking bus line 21 between Brest and Lesneven, or the 26 between Landerneau and Lesneven, then line 23 between Lesneven and Guissény. To return from Morlaix, you can travel along the Brest-Rennes train line.

There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. In the high season, you’ll need to book.

With its easy paths, this section of the GR 34 is passable all year round. There are plenty of shops along the route, so pack light and take the bare essentials with you. In summer, the wind can hide the heat: don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. In winter, Brittany is a particularly wet region: remember to bring appropriate clothing for both cold and rain.

Enjoy your trip!

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Useful links :

The first part of the customs trail between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: komoot.com/collection/2419552/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-saint-nazaire-et-pont-d-armes
The second part of the customs trail between Pont d'Armes and Surzur: komoot.com/collection/2422272/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-pont-d-armes-et-surzur
The third section of the customs trail between Surzur and Sarzeau: komoot.com/collection/2428988/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-surzur-et-sarzeau
The fourth section of the customs trail between Sarzeau and Vannes: komoot.com/collection/2431084/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-sarzeau-et-vannes
The fifth section of the customs trail between Vannes and Lorient: komoot.com/collection/2458062/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-vannes-et-lorient
The sixth section of the customs trail between Lorient and Concarneau: komoot.com/collection/2459250/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-lorient-et-concarneau
The seventh section of the customs trail between Concarneau and the Pointe du Raz: komoot.com/collection/2463258/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-concarneau-et-la-pointe-du-raz
The eighth section of the customs trail between Pointe du Raz and Le Fret: komoot.com/collection/2464503/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-la-pointe-du-raz-et-le-fret
The ninth section of the customs path between Le Fret and Brest: komoot.com/collection/2465755/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-le-fret-et-brest
The tenth section of the customs path between Brest and Guissény: komoot.com/collection/2470111/le-sentier-des-douaniers-le-gr-34-entre-le-brest-et-guisseny